As we know, cotton as a raw material, is widely used in the clothing industry and home furnishing industry. Especially in the clothing industry, the fabric directly affects wearing comfort and irritation to human skin. Good cotton also determines the value and wearing experience of the entire garment.
So it’s important t graded the quality of cotton. But how?
How to Grade the Quality of the Cotton?
Here listed some aspects for your reference:
- Color Grade
The color grade of cotton fibers is a measurement of brightness and yellowness. It is measured and reported as a three-digit number, such as 41-4, which is the current base grade. The lower the number, the better the color of the cotton, for example,31-3 is better than 41-4. Dull colors are usually caused by late monsoons. Reduced color diminishes the dyeing properties of fibers and negatively affects spinning efficiencies
Staple refers to fiber length and is the average length of the longest 50 percent of the fibers in a sample (referred to as the upper half mean length). It is reported in 32nds or hundredths of an inch. The current base grade for staple is 34 (34/32nds) or 1.06 inches. Longer fiber improves yarn strength, consistency, fineness, and spinning efficiency. Genetics significantly influence fiber length, but moisture, temperature, and nutrient deficiencies also can affect staple.
Measured micronaire(MIC) value as a measure of fiber fineness and density in cross-section, It generally reflects fiber maturity. Micronaire is broadly divided into premium, basic, and discounted levels. If the cotton’s grade is below 34, the low MIC is discounted, and if the grade is above 50, the high MIC is discounted. MIC ratings between 37 and 42 command a premium. Everything else is base-level. MIC is largely determined genetically but is also influenced by environmental factors. Hot, dry conditions often reduce fruit set, and in areas of the cotton belt with shorter growing seasons, premature crop termination often results in low MIC.
Strength is measured as the force required to break a certain volume of fibers and reported in g/tex. Fiber strength significantly affects yarn strength and spinning efficiency. Genetics, crop management, and environment affect strength. Weathering of open cotton can result in a significant decline in fiber strength. The base grade for strength is 27 to 28.9 g/tex.
- Length Uniformity Index
Length uniformity index (LUI) is a ratio of the overall average fiber length and the upper half mean length. The fibers are tidier with the same length, the LUI shows higher. If all fibers are identical in length (which is never the case), the LUI is 100.
Leaf, bark, and small particles called “pepper trash” are difficult to remove from lint and create significant challenges at the gin and mill. Variety, defoliation, harvest conditions, and ginning all affect leaves and trash in cotton. Cleaner the cotton more high the level of the yarn spinning.
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